Spirtituality is fascinating, enlightening and at the same time, confounding. Bill and I had traversed around many churches, synagogues, pagodas and temples learning about different religions and schools of thought. While I always really enjoy learning the history, beliefs and symbology associated with religion, it is difficult to look around and absorb what you are seeing while simultaneously reading a guidebook to really explain and interpret what you are seeing. While in Beijing, Bill and I were able close the guidebook while we relied on the trusty guidance of one of our friends from Texas, John, who was raised in Beijing and had come to show us his hometown.
Our first stop of the day led us to John's favorite temple, the White Cloud Temple (Bai Yun Guan). Entering the temple, John explained that there are hidden monkeys within the carvings throughout the temple. He showed us the one near the entrance and then challenged us to find the others. This is not something that I particularly excel at but eventually the group found the remaining monkeys. Of course, I am not going to say where they are because that would take the sheer fun out of it if you go, plus it was short-term knowledge and I can't for the life of me remember where they were.
We were really interested in learning about Taoism and its principles. Taoism emphasizes harmony between nature and mankind. And while non-action is a core concept, it is important to note that the complementary concept is action without action. Water, for example, is soft and supple yet can also move earth and smooth stone. There is a general flow to the universe and all living beings should live in harmony together and follow the general order without actively exercising dominance over another. Sounds good to me!
Near the front of the complex was a bridge over a shallow pool of water. Centered from the arch was a bell. Large coins lay strewn down below. Again, we were challenged to hit the din for a chance at good luck. Between finding monkeys and coin tossing, we were starting to feel quite competitive which is a questionable mood to be in when you're soul searching. Well if that was how it was going to be, I was willing to throw my chips (er, large-coins-with-no-monetary-value-bought-from-a-man-at-a-nearby-stand) in and see how I fared. Well as it turns out, I fared better than Bill but worse than probably everyone else. I think Polly hit the bullseye first...and second....
The bell underneath the bridge at White Cloud Temple - one direct hit to the bell and you've got good luck - not bad for a day's work
It took longer than anticipated for us all to hit the bell, but eventually we did and we continued on through the temple. We bought several packages of incense a piece based on John's recommendation that we would probably need it. As we walked around, we saw many urns with incense smoldering within it. John showed us how to properly bow to the urn or deity and offer our incense (preferably in odd number, usually three sticks).
John lighting incense
We quickly realized that John was right - you needed a lot of incense. Building after building, deity after deity. Each deity able to help with something that upon a moment of reflection sounded like something you could use - whether it be health, wealth or fertility. I'm not sure if we ultimately left more at peace or more stressed. Suffice it to say, a lot of incense was offered that day.
Our next step was the Temple of Heaven, probably my favorite temple of the trip. The two temples were created between 1406 and 1420 by the Young Emperor, also responsible for the Forbidden City (I do not, however, believe that he was responsible for the Starbucks that resides within).
The Temple of Heaven complex
The temples were visited by emperors to pray for a bountiful harvest. There are three main buildings:
- The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, is a wooden structure without any metal nails. This is where the emperor would pray for a good harvest. Each of the pillars has special meaning - the inner representing the four seasons, the middle represent the twelve months and the outer represent the twelve traditional Chinese hours
The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests
- The Imperial Vault of Heaven south of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. There is an echo wall that surrounds it where you can whisper something and the sound travels across the surface of the wall perfectly audible to the person at the other end
The Imperial Vault of Heaven
- The Earthly Mount is the actual altar location. It was built in 1530 by the Emperor Jiajing
Polly, John, Chrissy and Damien - totally lost on the Earthly Mount (check out that fab faux Coach that I'm wearing)
As with most religious structures, symbology is everywhere. Repeatedly Earth is represented throughout the temple by a square platform and Heaven, represented by a circle is laid overtop the square. Along the earthly mount, the number nine is used in homage to the emperor.
Continuing our whirlwind day, we decided to go shopping at the market. This proved to be quite an interesting place. Polly and I were interested in pearls and the guys were interested in electronics. We all went our separate ways. Both areas were overwhelming and every person beckoned us to come and negotiate. One thing was certain - we might get a good deal to us, but we were certainly not on par with negotiating with the Chinese.
We all wandered around independently and then rejoined to walk through the other parts of the market. Since seeing a Buddha head sculpture at our friend Penit's apartment in Bangkok, I had decided that I simply had to have one. I had told John so and he politely informed me that while I could invite a Buddha into my house, I shouldn't just outright purchase one. Apparently the shopkeepers hadn't gotten that memo though because they were all willing to sell me one for a sizable profit.
John and I both saw a couple of wooden Buddha heads that we both liked and he started to negotiate on our behalf. While the lady and her husband talked to John they would periodically look over at me and smile. I thought they seemed pretty friendly and I was excited about the prospect of getting a Buddha. We didn't quite get to a price that I wanted to pay so I opted out but John got one. He laughed as he walked away and told us that the couple had suggested that if we all bought stuff from them at a higher rate, they would let John buy anything he wanted very inexpensively after we left. Nice.
We must've been in the mood to spend a lot of money because everyone pretty much went wild at that point. Polly and I bought some small wall hangings and then headed for the pearls. Now that's just pure unadulterated fun. You get to pick settings.the design, shape, color. Polly jumped right in and I eventually settled on a lady that seemed nice enough. She seemed genuinely offended that I checked each pearl for authenticity (if you feel a sandiness as you rub it against your teeth then you're golden). They were all legit and I headed out with nice earrings and necklaces for my friends back home.
John and Polly inspecting pearls at the Pearl Market
Meanwhile, Bill, Damien and John were purchasing electronics. Fake iPods, a thumbdrive with a ridiculously large amount space, a Jameson flask. Damage done, we headed to happy hour.
***Post-script***
The fake iPod got abandoned somewhere along the way and the thumbdrives ended up being fakes. But the worst fate was afforded to my Buddha. Damien and Polly kindly took back our goods to the US, but the Buddha's head split open en route. This of course, begs the question - who gets the bad kharma - me or Damien? I vote for Damien.
- Chrissy